In this post, I share my experiences of sewing McCall’s 3672 – a vintage pattern purchased from Lady Marlowe Studios, dating from the year 1940.
In amongst every persons wardrobe there resides a ‘wardrobe staple’. The one garment or item of clothing that gets worn again and again. Recently, for me I seem to have a few garments that I tend to wear on rotation, depending on what I am doing. But the one garment that definitely gets the most wear, is my 1940s style trousers. Namely, the 1940s Swing Trousers by Vivien of Holloway. I actually own these in a number of different colours and fabrics, as I love the fit, the cut and the style.
But – as someone who sews, each time I wore them, there would be a little voice in the back of my mind saying – but surely I could make these myself?
So, I set about looking for 1940s trouser sewing patterns. I found McCall 3672 via the wonderful Lady Marlowe Studios on Etsy. I really liked view B – as they are very similar to my beloved VoH’s, and view A – my goodness! The darted detail at the ankles really evokes images of 1930s ski wear to me, which I love. I also thought view A would be so perfectly suited to cycling – an activity I find myself doing regularly to commute to & from town.
I decided to make view A first, mostly as I would then have a pair of 1940s trousers that would work brilliantly on my bicycle. I used some lovely 100% cotton cord in Dusky Green from Ditto Fabrics – which is available in lots of other colours too. The cord washes well, and feels exceptionally soft on my skin. As the cord is rather fine, I would say the fabric is a medium weight – thereby containing a good amount of drape.
I decided to trace the pattern, mostly as both versions were nested into one. I made a toile, and was actually surprised to find I needed to make a couple of adjustments. I found the rise rather high, and waist-hip unusually short. I have a long body, but even for me the length of the waist-hip was much shorter than I expected. Usually on 1940s patterns, the rise and body length is long, but for some reason that wasn’t the case with this particular pattern. So, I ended up lowering the rise by quite a bit, and also slashing & spreading across the pattern horizontally between the waist-hip line to add more length.
Other than those adjustments, the pattern fitted perfectly. I inserted metal zippers at the ankles, and also at the left hand side using a lapped zipper insertion.
I really love these trousers, and they are just so comfortable! I have worn them whilst cycling, and they work perfectly.
For next time, there are however some additional adjustments/changes I would make:
- Make the rise a teeny bit higher – I think I was actually over zealous in my initial adjustments, and the rise could do with being a tiny bit higher for next time.
- Make the waistband narrower – Seriously, the waistband on this pattern is so unnecessarily wide! I think it could actually be half the size it is.
- Add in-seam side pockets – Because pockets. Everyone loves a good functional pocket – amiright?
- Possibly have a fly front zipper?
- Omit the ankle zippers – use cotton/elastane cuffing instead.
I think for my next version, I am going to make view B. I just need to decide on which fabric to use!
As a side note, I just wanted to say how pleased I am with Lady Marlowe Studios on Etsy. I have purchased from her before, and both times the patterns arrived (from the USA to England) within about 4 days! Absolutely incredible. I have ordered items from within the UK that have taken twice as long as that to arrive sometimes. And the patterns themselves are clear, well presented and neatly packaged too. Anyway, I definitely recommend them!
- Scarf: Vintage
- Brooch: 1940s Style for You
- Jumper: Rocket Originals
- Polo Shirt (collar just seen) Simon James Cathcart
- Trousers – made by me – McCall 3672 view A, via Lady Marlowe Studios, Fabric – Ditto Fabrics
- Shoes – c/o Hotter
Until next time dears!