Having made up the pinafore dress from Marilla Walker’s Roberts Collection a few months ago, I was super excited when TWO new pattern releases emerged from Marilla towards the end of last year. In this post, I talk about making the Honetone Coat.
The Honetone Coat pattern has two different versions – view A is for a lined coat length, whilst view B is for an unlined jacket, with the length finishing just around the hipbone. I purchased the pattern with the unlined jacket in mind, then I decided to hunt around for some appropriate fabric. It just so happened that Ditto Fabrics had an end of roll brown brushed cotton drill that was absolutely perfect.
As always, I pre-washed the fabric on it’s own, on the temperature, cycle and detergent that I intended to use once I had made-up my garment. Unfortunately, the dye in the fabric reacted oddly to the detergent, creating lines of bleached out colour across the material. Undeterred, I waited for the fabric to dry to see if the colour would even out. It didn’t. But – although the effect was unexpected, I actually really liked it. I decided to pre-wash and dry the fabric for a second time, just to see if the dye came out more, or if the colour would even out. It stayed the same, and I decided just to ‘go with it’. Now that I have made-up the jacket, the dye effect is not all that noticeable – it just gives an overall tonal almost suede-like effect (which I think perfectly goes with the pattern and ‘mood’ of the jacket).
Onto the pattern itself. As with the Roberts Collection, I found this pattern very straight forward to follow, with lots of diagrams and very clear written instructions. Both versions of coat & jacket are in one pattern, so for view B – the shorter jacket, I traced the pattern so as to retain the longer coat length version for future use.
The pockets are rather clever, and I was very intrigued to see how these would be executed. Although they look confusing, Marilla’s instructions walk you through the entire process, making the construction a breeze.
Overall I would say the pattern itself came together very quickly, it was the top stitching that actually took a fair bit of time. But, I really feel the top stitching gives the jacket a brilliant casual feel, and you know I just love a pop of yellow! I decided to add an additional top pocket using the pocket piece from my Merchant & Mills Factory Dress pattern.
Otherwise I didn’t make any pattern alterations, I kept the length as intended, and everything is exactly as Marilla drafted it (with the exception of the top pocket as explained above). I cut the size 2, and I feel this is perfect fit. The jacket is supposed to be loose, and I wouldn’t want it much looser than this.
I finished the raw edges of the fabric by overlocking, but I chose to finish the edges of the internal facing in orange bias binding.
A Hidden Message..
Moving onto the facing, prior to construction, I thought it might be nice to include some embroidery on the jacket. Inspired by the movie Phantom Thread, I decided to stitch a little message to myself onto the back neck facing. I did the stitching, then applied the interfacing, stitched the facings together, then finished the edges with the bias binding. That way, the back of the embroidery is encased in the interfacing, and not seen.
Although no one else will know the message is there, it makes me smile whenever I take the jacket off, or when I see it hanging up.
- Pattern: Honetone Coat by Marilla Walker – PDF pattern / Printed Pattern
- Fabric: Brown Cotton Drill from Ditto Fabrics (this particular fabric no longer available)
- Buttons: Vintage
I really love this jacket, it has a great casual feel to it, and I can definitely see myself getting lots of wear out of it!
Until next time dears!