Decades of Style 1920s Tulip Kimono Sewing Pattern Review

In this post, I team the 1920s Tulip Kimono by Decades of Style Pattern Company, with the vintage inspired Valetta heels by Hotter Shoes.

Often with sewing patterns, I will chance across one I like, and usually purchase it there and then. This is especially true of original vintage patterns, as these are of course harder to find. However, with patterns produced by large companies, or smaller independent labels, sometimes it takes me a while to actually get around to purchasing and trying out these patterns. Last year this was the case with the Colette Oolong, and this year it has been the turn of the 1920s Tulip Kimono by Decades of Style.

This particular pattern has been on my little (who am I kidding) um, long, list of patterns to buy for at least a year. As Decades of Style have recently added a further 3 patterns to their 1920s line, I decided that it was high time I actually purchased the pattern and tried it out!

To further add to my motivation to make the pattern, I am working with Hotter Shoes for my third season, and I knew the 1920s Tulip Kimono would pair perfectly with their vintage inspired Valetta heels.

The PDF print out of the 1920s Tulip Kimono by Decades of Style Pattern Company.

Ironically, as I wanted to start using the pattern as soon as possible (after holding out for over a year to purchase it in the first place – my mind works in mysterious ways!) I purchased the PDF version to print out at home. Included in the zip folder is a file containing the print at home A4 size pattern, and also a large format version to print out at a copy shop. I was curious to try out the copy shop version, but unfortunately the quote I received was in excess of £40. Obviously I decided to print out the pattern at home instead.

As the pattern is loose-fitting, I decided not to make a toile. The fact that this Decades of Style pattern includes both sizing measurements AND finished garment measurements make it much easier to select the right size for the amount of ease/fit you require. (Also one of the reasons I didn’t make a toile – I referred to the finished garment measurements to get a clear idea of how the garment would fit me).

The pattern pieces with my lining, trims and tread.

The pattern itself was very clear and concise, making it a dream to work with. The PDF includes 9 sizes, which are all clearly differentiated through variations to individual sizing lines. I cut the size A-32, which gave a nice amount of ease whilst still retaining a streamlined shape.

We shot these pictures at the utterly beautiful Charleston House, the perfect setting for a 1920s inspired look.

For the fabric, I wanted to choose something evocative of both the Aesthetic movement, and the Arts & Crafts movement. Liberty seemed like the perfect choice, so I decided to use Liberty cotton twill fabric. The fabric itself is beautiful, the colours are wonderfully clear and vibrant. However, when I got the fabric home, I discovered an ugly line travelling directly up the length of the material through the middle. In the shop, the fabric had been folded and stored on the bolt, so had over time developed a pressure line at the point. I hadn’t noticed this at the time of purchase – I should mention here, although this is genuine Liberty fabric, I did not purchase it from Liberty’s. Instead I purchased it from a fabric store in London that I had not previously been to.

Detail. The piping trim matches the tassels, which in turn pick up on the red and orange shades in the Liberty fabric.

Undeterred, I was determined to carry on with my Kimono. In light of the defect in the material, I decided to cut out each pattern piece individually, with the fabric as one layer. This. Took. Forever. Especially as some of the pattern pieces require to cut 4 rather than 2. But, I really didn’t want a great line screaming out on the garment. By cutting the fabric this way, it was unavoidable that one of the sleeves has part of the line visible, but the other parts are placed on the inside facing pieces. As the print is directional, this also added time to the pattern cutting process. In total, it probably took me about 2 hours or so just to cut out the fabric.

The completed outfit.

In order to make a feature of the lines of the pattern, I decided to use self-made piping within the hem bands and cuffs. I feel this helps to break up the pattern of the fabric slightly, whilst also drawing attention to the interesting cut of the Kimono.

The Valetta heels by Hotter Shoes are one of my favourite styles from the brand. So comfortable, and the cut-out details really evokes an early twentieth century feel.

The pattern is comprised of 7 pieces – Front, Back, Sleeve, Cuff, Collar, Front Band & Back Band. Although the Kimono is not fully lined, the hem of the jacket is lined by cutting the front bands and back band out twice, thereby lining the hem of the jacket nicely and concealing the seamline on the inside. I did however, decide to fully line my version. To do this I cut the pattern out as directed, but in addition cut the Front, Back and Sleeve pieces again using lining fabric. Instead of sewing the inner hem bands to the jacket as directed, I sewed the lining pieces together, then stitched the inner hem band pieces to my lining. Finally, I sewed the entire lining to the Kimono.

I teamed my newly-sewn Kimono with a 1920s style dress, and the Valetta heels by Hotter Shoes.

For next time, in all honesty I think I would have been equally as happy without fully lining my jacket. As long as the side seams, sleeves and armhole seams are finished neatly or French seamed, I feel the inner hem bands are more than sufficient to give a lovely finish.

Back view.

The Kimono fastens at the front with a loop and original vintage button. I added a pair of tassels for a bit of whimsy, and to tie-in with the colour I used for the piping accents. I also stitched an inner ribbon tie to keep the jacket fastened neatly, as the design is slightly double-breasted.

The 1920s Tulip Kimono by Decades of Style – Things to Note

  • On me, the sleeve cuffs were really long, so I turned them under twice to diminish some of the length.
  • It is not necessary to line the Kimono as it is already partially lined at the hem bands anyway.
  • Easy to use and assemble.
  • The pattern comes with an A4 instruction booklet, which talks you through each stage of the construction process.

Total time to make – it probably took me around 2 days. BUT- I did have that difficult line in the fabric to contend with, and I decided to add decorative piping & fully line my Kimono. If I had used a non-directional fabric (without any defects!), and omitted the piping & full lining, I probably could have made the Kimono from start to finish in around 4 hours or so.

Would I recommend this pattern to others? ABSOLUTELY!

As previously mentioned, part of the reason for making this Kimono was because I felt it would be the perfect accompaniment to the Valetta heels by Hotter Shoes.

The Valetta are available for SS17 in Navy leather or Black suede, I am wearing the Navy leather version in these pictures. The Valetta are actually one of the first pairs of Hotter Shoes I owned, with the purchase of a Burgundy suede pair back in 2015. I have worn that pair on numerous occasions, and always feel stylish and comfortable – a winning combination!

To read more about the Valetta, my inspirations behind this outfit, and to see original 1920s shoe adverts and illustrations; visit the Hotter Shoes blog It’s a Shoe Thing here.

Links

I would definitely make up the 1920s Tulip Kimono pattern again. I feel this pattern has endless fabric possibilities – a wool version for a casual light coat, velvet or silk for an indoors lounging version, cotton or corduroy for a daytime version.. the list goes on. I also think this pattern would lend itself perfectly to surface decoration in the form of fabric painting, embroidery and printing. So many possibilities!

Until next time dears!

 

1940s CC41 Suit & My Birthday Weekend

In which I debut my original 1940s CC41 suit, and accessorize with an authentically styled bag from Original Crochet by Q on Etsy.

Another year has passed by, and I am indeed another year older. Generally, I never feel negative about ageing. Apart from the increasing number of white hairs making an appearance on my head (which I have had from the age of twenty, so I am pretty much used to their residency by now anyway), getting older has never really bothered me. I generally take the view that I am impressed and in awe of my body for getting me thus far, and indeed I hope to enjoy many more years on this earthly plane.

Ironically, as if my body wished to remind me of the turning of another year, I woke up on my ‘Birthday Eve’ with a frozen shoulder. At least, I’m not entirely sure that is what I have, but I woke up with terrible neck/head/shoulder pain, as if I had trapped a nerve. As I type this, I still have the problem, but it has at least started to lessen.

Shoulder pain or no, I knew I wanted to dress up and feel special on my Birthday weekend, so I did just that! As the weather is currently freezing, I had to dress for warmth, whilst still retaining an element of style. Whilst I did want to reach for a gorgeous rayon 1940s dress I have not yet worn, I knew I would need something slightly more substantial to keep the chilly temperatures at bay. I decided to wear this beautiful original 1940s CC41 suit. I have worn both the skirt and jacket on separate occasions, but up until now not worn them together.

I found this suit on the top floor of an incredible vintage/antique/odds & ends shop in Devizes just before Christmas. The shop was amazing, with creaky stairs, low ceilings and atmospheric lightning. It was almost a treasure trove, full of undiscovered gems waiting for their perfect owner. At first I found the skirt on a table, then, looking around I found the matching jacket placed on a chair amongst some other garments.  From looking at the skirt I knew straight away that it was 1940s, and the style of the jacket confirmed this. It was not until I got the suit home and gave it good long soak that I discovered the CC41 label. Imagine my joy!

The suit is made from linen, and is completely unlined. The skirt fastens with a side placket, a single popper and a double hook & eye on the internal petersham waistband. The jacket has hidden handsewn loops with two hooks to keep the waist section closed. At first the ‘flaps’ on the front of the jacket perplexed me somewhat – they are not functional pockets, merely decorative details. But on a CC41 suit, why add extra fabric when it does not serve a purpose? My conclusion is that the suit possibly originated in the later 1940s, when cloth shortages had subsided slightly.

I teamed the suit with a Rocket Originals jumper, a turban I had found a few days earlier, and a wonderful bag from Original Crochet by Q on Etsy. I first discovered Original Crochet by Q through fellow blogger Nora, when she posted a picture with her bag on Instagram last summer. I have been hankering after a bag of my own for some months, and after Christmas decided to treat myself (knowing it would hopefully arrive just in time for my Birthday, which luckily it did!)

I contacted Q Lat, the stores owner, and asked her about the possibility of selecting a custom colour. She was extremely helpful, providing me with colour charts with multiple shades and yarns to select from. Once I had selected my colour, I then chose the lining, handles, and added a magnetic snap. The bag really adds an authentic touch to a 1940s outfit, I am so happy I took the plunge and purchased it!

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Outfit Details

Overall, I had a lovely Birthday weekend, even with the horrid shoulder pain!

Until next time dears!